-Chris climbing "Palace Aid" (note the run out between his first bad piece and the bolt).



Yesterday Chris Hirsch and I climbed on the North Shore. Chris climbed the test piece "Palace Aid" a climb that had been previously climbed by only one other person Dave Groth. The mixed route has tricky gear placements and a red point crux in the last 20 feet. Chris has just started traditional climbing and has proved to have an exceptional head for danger. His first piece of protection was the worst, "I put the cam in the pocket for a false sense of security" said Chris before easily sending the route.
The gear does improve toward the top, however consists only of micro cams and a small nut. Chris was able to memorize every gear placement after rehearsing the route while placeing gear one time on top rope. Very impressive. I happily followed the route but did not send. This was my first experience climbing on the North Shore and I am planning to go back soon.

-Chris relaxing before the send












































-Me top roping like a wuss

Erin climbed many classic boulder problems in the forest as well as many great routes on the Chief and in the Smoke Bluffs with me. She was never too tired to try a new boulder or climb another route. Here she is climbing "Tim's Slopers" V5.

Erin and I climbed the Grand Wall 5.11a while in Squamish. It went well except after the Sword Pitch (where the following film was made). I read the guidebook description wrong and linked three pitches rather then two as I had planned. I ran out of rope with twenty feet to the belay anchor and Erin was forced to simul climb. The good thing is that Erin was bold enough to climb onwards despite not being able to see or hear me to know if she was on belay. The other thing that contributed to our safety was
that one of the pitches that I had linked was an aid pitch, so there was a dozen or more bolts clipped between us. Next time I will read the guidebook more carefully.

We are now back from Squamish and the trip was wonderful. I have posted some videos and more pictures. Nursing school started last week and soon we will be climbing in northern Minnesota at Sawmill Creek Dome. The fall is the best time to climb!