Yesterday Chris Hirsch and I climbed on the North Shore. Chris climbed the test piece "Palace Aid" a climb that had been previously climbed by only one other person Dave Groth. The mixed route has tricky gear placements and a red point crux in the last 20 feet. Chris has just started traditional climbing and has proved to have an exceptional head for danger. His first piece of protection was the worst, "I put the cam in the pocket for a false sense of security" said Chris before easily sending the route.
The gear does improve toward the top, however consists only of micro cams and a small nut. Chris was able to memorize every gear placement after rehearsing the route while placeing gear one time on top rope. Very impressive. I happily followed the route but did not send. This was my first experience climbing on the North Shore and I am planning to go back soon.
-Chris relaxing before the send
-Me top roping like a wuss