-Chris climbing "Palace Aid" (note the run out between his first bad piece and the bolt).



Yesterday Chris Hirsch and I climbed on the North Shore. Chris climbed the test piece "Palace Aid" a climb that had been previously climbed by only one other person Dave Groth. The mixed route has tricky gear placements and a red point crux in the last 20 feet. Chris has just started traditional climbing and has proved to have an exceptional head for danger. His first piece of protection was the worst, "I put the cam in the pocket for a false sense of security" said Chris before easily sending the route.
The gear does improve toward the top, however consists only of micro cams and a small nut. Chris was able to memorize every gear placement after rehearsing the route while placeing gear one time on top rope. Very impressive. I happily followed the route but did not send. This was my first experience climbing on the North Shore and I am planning to go back soon.

-Chris relaxing before the send












































-Me top roping like a wuss

Erin climbed many classic boulder problems in the forest as well as many great routes on the Chief and in the Smoke Bluffs with me. She was never too tired to try a new boulder or climb another route. Here she is climbing "Tim's Slopers" V5.

Erin and I climbed the Grand Wall 5.11a while in Squamish. It went well except after the Sword Pitch (where the following film was made). I read the guidebook description wrong and linked three pitches rather then two as I had planned. I ran out of rope with twenty feet to the belay anchor and Erin was forced to simul climb. The good thing is that Erin was bold enough to climb onwards despite not being able to see or hear me to know if she was on belay. The other thing that contributed to our safety was
that one of the pitches that I had linked was an aid pitch, so there was a dozen or more bolts clipped between us. Next time I will read the guidebook more carefully.

We are now back from Squamish and the trip was wonderful. I have posted some videos and more pictures. Nursing school started last week and soon we will be climbing in northern Minnesota at Sawmill Creek Dome. The fall is the best time to climb!

squamish summer 2007

Erin and I have had a great time in Squamish. Yesterday (8-16-07) we climbed "the Grand Wall" route up The Cheif, the climb is eight pitches long and goes at 5.11a.

Erin recently led her first traditional climb and has been bouldering well, sending three v5's.

Rich has been driving up from Vancouver to hang out and Danielle and Eric Harrison are now here with their dog, peanut.

The weather has been perfect and we are very excited to have this opportunity to use our climbing experience in such a wonderful place.

Bouldering in Bishop is done

I split my index finger open yesterday on "Evilution". I have never split a tip this bad. I was having such a great day. I did the crux on "Center Direct" and almost sent, then tried "Mandala", "La Bellet", and last "Evilution". "Evilution is so cool, I made it to the second to last hold right away but I could feel pain in my finger and noticed blood on every hold. When I looked at my finger I realized my time bouldering in the Buttermilks was over.

I am going to Crested Butte today to visit my friend Katie. This weekend I will meet up with friends from Minnesota for some sport climbing in Spearfish Canyon, SD before coming back to Minneapolis.

The tall boulder in the photos is "Jedi Mind Tricks".

Left Yosemite....

I'm in Bishop California now. Adam and Wade were leaving Yosemite and I had yet to hear anything about work in the Valley so I came with my friends to Bishop. I am staying until EZ (Danielle's boyfriend) has his "climber's go golfing" party next Saturday.

The drive here was long from Yosemite. While only about one hundred miles as the crow flies, it took me almost eight hours in the truck since the pass on the east side of Yosemite was closed and the truck is slow as hell. The good thing is that I was not in a hurry and the views through the Sierra and near Lake Tahoe were incredible.

I climbed "Saigon" and worked "Center Direct" yesterday. Saigon was my warm up and I was psyched to do it since I never had when I lived in Bishop in 2005.

Wade has been constant entertainment. Yesterday he turned on some hilarious music from his cell phone before exclaiming to the camera "my video's don't need music added in", then he crushed Center Direct in great style. Adam and I both split the skin on our pointer fingers open, doh.

The first picture is of a content Wade shooting his .45 after nearly two weeks of "guns free Yosemite National Park". The second picture is of Wade emerging from the back of his truck in the morning.

I am in Yosemite Valley.

Yesterday I climbed Midnight Lightning. The climb took much work. I made it to the last move and fell around 14 times before changing my beta and completing the boulder problem.

My friends Wade and Adam are here. We have mostly been bouldering however the first day I arrived Wade and I climbed two pitches up El Capitan. Adam and I climbed a 400' route called Serenity Crack and Wade took the photos. I lead all pitches (5.10d, a 5.10c and another 5.10d). On the last pitch there are no feet for the final 25' and protection is hard to place. My last piece in the crux fell out and I literally ran it out to the top. To make it more interesting a party of three people were on top watching me thrutch my way to the top facing a potential 40' fall onto a small cam. The ratings here are stiff.

I am waiting to hear back about getting a job. I applied first thing on last Monday. Either way I am staying in the valley for a while.

March 8th 2007 El Chupacabra

I am sitting in Carls Jr using their free internet, waiting to pick up my friend John Cooper from the airport.

Since the Rodeo I have been struggling to recover. The wind and cold temperatures caused my skin on the ends of my fingers to split causing painful cracks that bled and did not heal until a couple days ago. My body felt battered like my skin and I did not climb well. Over this period I worked on a climb called "El Chupacabra", a V10 with great opening moves matching an under cling on a roof continuing with about eight more tenuous moves to a blind hold over the lip. Before finally sending the climb I was falling at the last move until one of the Japanese guys on our tour pointed to the hold as I lunged. I almost hugged the guy when I got down from the top out. The first picture is of me next to the climb after sending.

There is a group of seven guys from Japan here for the month. They rule! The amount of energy the have is astounding, plus they are ridiculously strong.

I am planning on leaving soon. Today my friend Kevin left and the ranch is becoming quiet. I will leave for Yosemite for a new climbing experience in a few days. Apparently it will be easier to find work the earlier in the season I arrive.

Rock Rodeo 2007

Today is the day after the Hueco Rock Rodeo. I competed this year for the first time. My day started well but I burned out after trying some hard new climbs and could not complete enough boulder problems by the end of the day to be competitive. Next time I should stick to things I can do quickly.

The day and night before the event tents were destroyed by gale force winds blowing col, sand filled air. The wind continued throughout the event and made the day cold and exhausting. At night the wind died down and the party began. A twenty foot fire raged and music played all night long. I was amazed at how well the young competitors climbed having never been to Hueco before.

Today I am sore with battered skin and sore muscles.

Full Service was climbed about a week ago. My fifth day on the problem Kevin and I sent the climb within five minutes of each other.

Full Service

Try hard. I have unsuccessfully been trying to climb "Full Service". This climb has eluded me now after four days of serious effort. I cannot reach the last hold without my feet cutting, meaning I have to hold a violent swing which has injured my left shoulder. Despite the pain I managed to climb "Left Martini".

Christy Mader is down here with her friends Justin, and Kristall, from Winnipeg. I have enjoyed showing them around the park and will be sad when they leave in a couple days.

Life at the ranch is low key and we are all excited for the upcomming Rock Rodeo on the 24th of February.