I am sitting in Carls Jr using their free internet, waiting to pick up my friend John Cooper from the airport.
Since the Rodeo I have been struggling to recover. The wind and cold temperatures caused my skin on the ends of my fingers to split causing painful cracks that bled and did not heal until a couple days ago. My body felt battered like my skin and I did not climb well. Over this period I worked on a climb called "El Chupacabra", a V10 with great opening moves matching an under cling on a roof continuing with about eight more tenuous moves to a blind hold over the lip. Before finally sending the climb I was falling at the last move until one of the Japanese guys on our tour pointed to the hold as I lunged. I almost hugged the guy when I got down from the top out. The first picture is of me next to the climb after sending.
There is a group of seven guys from Japan here for the month. They rule! The amount of energy the have is astounding, plus they are ridiculously strong.
I am planning on leaving soon. Today my friend Kevin left and the ranch is becoming quiet. I will leave for Yosemite for a new climbing experience in a few days. Apparently it will be easier to find work the earlier in the season I arrive.
2 comments:
Joel! How long will you work in Yosemite?? I am going to be out there for two weeks. I am leaving CO on May 20. Let me know... I need beta for Midnight Lightning. kelly
If I get work??! -I will still be here. I will know more in the next couple of weeks. I finally did Midnight Lightning yesterday morning. DO NOT TRY THE MANTEL!! It's nails. Instead, use the left hand gaston in the crack above the mantel and lock off the move to the last hold. You will do it. Congrats on Finger Hut!!!
Post a Comment